A retrospective insight into the theories of fashion, fashion life cycles and direction for consumers.
Central to any definition of fashion is the relationship between the designed product and how it is distributed and consumed. This article will explore, explain and challenge fundamental ideas of trends within the fashion industry.
Firstly, it’s essential to understand how fashion moves through various socioeconomic levels of society. We can use these patterns to determine a trend’s lag-time and life cycle. This is introduced and illustrated by the three theories of fashion adoption:
Trickle-down theory:
Recognized as the world’s oldest and most accepted fashion theory, it originated in the nineteenth century and involves fashion trends set by the affluent which are quickly adopted down the social hierarchy. Fashion is considered a “vehicle of conspicuous consumption and upward mobility” for those wishing to identify with the affluent, therefore, by imitating the new style accepted and shared amongst those at the top strata of society- it allows those in lower strata’s to be associated with them. Not only does the model assume a society in which people desire to associate themselves with the wealthy, but it also assumes that the wealthy seek clear distance and distinction from those socially below them. This explains why the affluent begin to reject the trend once the fashion has been adopted by the masses.
This behavior is still relevant today. For example, the two images below demonstrate the discussed fashion movement. The first piece is part of the autumn/winter collection of 2013 by Saint Laurent, whilst the latter, is a similar dress manufactured by Primark.
The constant changing of trends and persistent consumer attitudes to keep up with these trends is what fuels fast fashion. Ultimately, it generates a constant year-round supply of capital to the fashion industry, as consumers attempt to stay in trend. However, this movement has become less influential in the fashion industry due to the rising of digital culture explained below.
Trickle-up theory:
Essentially, the opposite concept of “Trickle-down” theory. The newest of fashion movement theories, it involves innovation of individuals of the lower strata of society to set a trend which eventually becomes widely accepted amongst those of higher society. Popularizing styles such as grunge through social media, the most prominent pieces of this movement are distressed jeans and (graphic) tees. The movement has created a shift in dynamic of innovation, as lower tiers of society no longer depend on the influence of others but can create meaning through their own sense of fashion. Street-style is also a well-known product of this movement.
This simply means that consumers are becoming less influenced by social hierarchy in society as social media provides a platform for its users to share different styles and tastes and allows trends to catch on through its mass audience.
Trickle-across theory:
Additionally, with the aid of social media, it has also allowed another adoption movement to occur in the fashion industry. The “Trickle-across” theory allows trends to be accessible to all socioeconomic groups simultaneously at various prices. Developed technology in the 21st Century has allowed designer fashions to be copied quickly and easily, making them available for all consumers of different socioeconomic classes to manipulate. Fashion leaders in each class, influence their group to accept the style or new trend and popularity spreads throughout. Aviator sunglasses are a prime example of this.
So, what is its significance towards consumers? It enables trends to be enjoyed by all classes instantaneously, its shortest lag-time of adoption of the three theories means that the trend can become highly profited due to popularity. Although, the trend may become saturated which in turn starts to lose consumer interest (this concept is further explained below).
Now that we understand how trends spread amongst a population, it’s practical to know its life cycle. For us as consumers, we will be able to determine how long the new style will stay in trend and therefore decide whether to invest into certain pieces or not.
Fashion life cycle:
Usually depicted as a five-stage model, it presents how a style is accepted throughout a period.
Introductory Phase
Designers create new designs which are sold at high prices, varying the material, hem and color. The new creations (or “latest fashion”) may not be accepted by the community yet.
Increase in Popularity
The style is worn by many. Gaining attention from figures in the fashion industry and media, other retailers may copy the design and adjust the style to be more affordable for their target audience and consumers.
Peak of Popularity
Many retailers distribute the style, making knockoffs to sell as the style becomes widely accepted.
Decline in Popularity
So many copies are mass produced and worn that individuals seek new styles.
Whilst the style is not yet rejected, but consumers are less tolerant to pay the regular price for the style.
Rejection of a style
Some consumers have already started on another trend, beginning a new cycle.
This rejection of a trend can be referred to as “consumer obsolescence”.
A final interesting psychological model theorizing how (in particular) women’s fashion changes during a period is “The Shifting of Erogenous Zones”:
James Laver, a fashion historian from the twentieth century, theorized in the 1930’s that women’s changing fashion sense was due to the shifting of sexual fixation by the opposite sex, whilst changes in men’s fashion would be dictated by the “hierarchy principle”- meaning that the most fashionable men’s styles would often emphasize socioeconomic status (rather than for any means of sexual attraction).
The theory states that in women’s fashionable dress, attraction of males would be maintained by “selectively exposing and concealing various parts of the female anatomy”, therefore, women’s fashion would change due to the “shifting of erogenous zones”. Maintaining interest by concealing selective parts of the body would increase “erotic capital”. However, once a certain area has been exposed for a period, it is theorized it begins to decrease in its power to attract and another area would be exposed whilst covering up the prior region.
This can be seen applied through-out women’s fashion history. During the Renaissance-era, women would often drape their abdomens in fabrics to achieve a swollen appearance emulating the appearance of that of a pregnant woman. As successful childbearing was perceived as a priority in the disease ridden 14th – 15th century, using this theory, it is understandable why women’s fashion has changed and been shaped in this way over the years.
Fashion will always and forever keep changing. Indulging in trends shouldn’t be disapproved of but embraced as it signifies the start of a new style in fashion history. However, we as consumers should take the initiative to carefully assess the environmental, social and economic impacts trends may create for the future and wider society.
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